Model "Gaslight & Fog" from The House of Woodcock collection shown in "Phantom Thread". Tailored by me in willow grey Holland & Sherry wool and silk window pane plaid suiting and biscuit linen. This is identical in cut to the bronze tweed and green Donegal shown before, though here designer Mark Bridges wanted the waistcoat effect insert to be more prominent by using contrasting fabric. Note the matching umbrella fourreau. Trรจs chic... ooops, shouldn't have said that, sorry Reynolds! #phantomthreadmovie #phantomthread #oscarnominations2018 #oscarnominated #thewomenofwoodcock #danieldaylewis #costume #ladiestailoring #tailoring #johncavanagh #hautecouture #vintagestyle #bespoketailoring #hollywoodcostume
849
7 days ago
Under the scrutinous eye of costume designer Mark Bridges, doing a fitting on Lesley Manville for a puce grosgrain cocktail suit worn in "Phantom Thread", (at least I hope so, will find out on Friday...) @phantomthread #phantomthread #phantomthreadmovie #lesleymanville #danieldaylewis #costume #oscarnominations2018 #markbridges #ladiestailoring #tailoring #hautecouture #vintagestyle #bespoketailoring #hollywoodcostumes
332
26 days ago
Last one on the work coat: I did not think overlocking the seams would be appropriate as linen does fray and such garment would be laundered on a regular basis. As Irish linen is quite thick, I opted for lapped seams at the sides and on the sleeves, one seam allowance is cut small, a larger one wraps around it and is then top stitched. The seam joining lower and upper back was opened to the outside because it got covered by the belt. So it is nice and neat inside. The continious facing was cut with a shaped extension at the waist which joins to the side seam at the point where the belt is. Since there is no lining, it keeps the facing from flapping and gives extra strength for the 2 sets of buttons at the waist, which were sewn on through and through both layers. All raw seams on the facing and armholes are bound with cotton bias. Fronts and collar have white canvas interlining and are padded and hand finished the usual bespoke way. #phantomthreadmovie #bespoketailoring #phantomthread #costume #tailoring #hautecouture #vintagestyle #hollywoodcostume #danieldaylewis #oscarnominations2018
592
1 month ago
Details of the work coat made in Irish linen. As you may know Daniel Day-Lewis is known as a method actor and staying in character off set. Reynolds Woodcock he plays, is an excentic couturier, not gay for a change but still with a strong dress sense. The costume department ordered puce socks from ecclesiastical supplier Gammarelli in Rome, had a jumper knitted and shopped for antique jewellery. So it came to no surprise Reynolds was not happy with an ordinary white cotton drill for his coat. After painstakingly considering the options, a pale putty colour Irish linen was chosen and it worked beautifully. I draped and then fitted the initial toile in cotton. At Reynolds suggestion we added a side strap for adjustment and patch pockets, the breast one with channels for pens was explicitly requested. The back was cut in 2 parts, seperated by a sewn down belt whose extensions fasten to buttons at the front side. The top back has two shallow pleats to give a slight blousy effect and we echoed this on the sleeve cuffs. Horn buttons were dyed to match, buttonholes hand embroidered with silk. Since the coat is unstructured apart from white hair canvas down the fronts and unlined, all seam allowances are finely bound with cotton bias. #phantomthreadmovie #phantomthread #danieldaylewis #costume #ladiestailoring #tailoring #hautecouture #vintagestyle #oscarnominations2018 #bespoketailoring #hollywoodcostume
546
1 month ago
Daniel Day-Lewis in "Phantom Thread" in his work coat that I made from Irish Linen. Costume designs often evolve with opinions and ideas of all the different people involved: designer, maker and actor (particularly with Hollywood royalty involved...) this one was no exception. Costume designer Mark Bridges reference was images of Balenciaga in his white cotton lab coat, he used to wear in the ateliers when working. This was quite common in continental couture houses and there are pictures of Givenchy and YSL in white coats. I remember photographs of the master tailor from the salon where I trained, from the 70s when this was still quite common. Why do people who sew, cut cloth and fit clients wear protective coats over their clothes? They never engage in dirty work like butchers, car mechanics or artist in their linen smocks. I guess it somehow elevates the wearer to a "god in white", a kind of doctor...and of course good design and tailoring can achieve what only surgery otherwise can with a knife. #phantomthreadmovie #bespoketailoring #phantomthread #costume #tailoring #hautecouture #vintagestyle #hollywoodcostume #danieldaylewis #oscarnominations2018
391
1 month ago
Both jacket and cape were lined in rich ruby silk taffeta. Although whipcord is quite tightly woven, the version we used did not have much body. To give a luxurious drape and handle, the complete cape was underlined and in addition the fronts canvassed and hem stiffened. #phantomthreadmovie #phantomthread #lesleymanville #danieldaylewis #costume #ladiestailoring #tailoring #oscarnominations2018 #hautecouture #vintagestyle #bespoketailoring #hollywoodcostume
677
24 days ago
Model number one from the fashion show sequence in "Phantom Thread": the lovely Ingrid Schramm @uppynewman dressed in a Elizabethan hunting/Eastern European folk costume inspired three piece outfit made by me in dark blue whipcord. #phantomthreadmovie #phantomthread #lesleymanville #danieldaylewis #costume #ladiestailoring #tailoring #hautecouture #vintagestyle #bespoketailoring #hollywoodcostume #oscarnominations2018
734
24 days ago
#oscarnominations2018 #rachelmorrison #merlystreep #gretagerwig #willemdafoe #allisonjanney #jordanpeele #danielkaluuya #agnesvarda ๐Ÿ† #hair & #makeup on @rmorrison on me @xclusiveartists use @laprairie @alba1913 @johnfriedaus #style by #gorgeous @blackcatstyling
73
12 days ago
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